Indonesia

Komodo Manta Etiquette: Space at Cleaning Stations

Picture a manta rising out of the blue in Komodo, wings wide, and a dozen people in the water all kicking towards it at once. The manta turns and is gone. A Komodo manta ray does not circle for your group. It is there for the cleaning station or the plankton, and your job is to be a still object in a moving sea.

Reef manta ray gliding over a sandy lagoon
Reef manta ray gliding over a sandy lagoon. Photo: naushad mohamed, Unsplash

Komodo National Park is one of the best-studied places in Indonesia for reef manta rays, and one of the busiest. Both facts matter for how you behave there.

Here is what the science says, what I could and could not verify about the rules, and how we think about patience in a place where current makes the show.

How Komodo manta ray encounters really work

Mantas in Komodo are not a performance. A large 2022 study in PeerJ used photographs from researchers and citizen scientists at four popular sites, Cauldron, Karang Makassar, Mawan and Manta Alley. It identified 1,085 individual reef manta rays between 2013 and 2018. The southern site, Manta Alley, had the highest re-sighting probabilities. Karang Makassar and Mawan are only about 5 km apart, yet the rays showed clear preferences for each.

That tells us something useful. Mantas have favourite places, and movement between them follows seasons. A site is not a stage that is switched on when you arrive. If the current is wrong or the plankton is elsewhere, the manta is elsewhere too.

The same study also recorded what the rays were doing at each site. Mawan was mostly cleaning, while the Cauldron channel was mostly cruising and feeding. We wrote that up in manta sites have different roles. The principle is simple: some places are for cleaning, some for feeding, and each one punishes haste in its own way.

Why space matters at a cleaning station

At a cleaning station, small fish remove parasites and dead skin from the manta. The manta chooses to be there and to hover. Anything that makes it leave costs it something.

Research from the Maldives, where the Manta Trust works, gives us numbers to think with. A 2018 study of cleaning stations found that staying more than three metres from the manta and staying off the cleaning station itself were the main things that kept divers from causing a reaction. The same work concluded that scuba divers had a minimal impact on reef mantas at cleaning stations when they behaved this way. The Trust has also warned that divers clustering over the station can stop rays from reaching it. An earlier Baa Atoll study suggested snorkellers keep three metres or more.

These are Maldives findings, not Komodo findings, and the Trust’s code of conduct is the authoritative text for exact distances. Summaries I saw also mention a quiet entry at least ten metres away and keeping fins below the surface. Please check the current code on the Manta Trust site.

Current, plankton and a different kind of patience

Boats usually drop people up-current. Snorkellers who swim after a feeding animal end up out of breath in empty water while the manta keeps the plankton. A calmer way is to let the water bring you: float, breathe, keep your arms close and your legs quiet.

Komodo is also a reminder that Indonesia is not one temperature or one current. Conditions can change within a day. Pack for cool water and wind on the boat, and keep your plans flexible. The Indonesia Atlas is our honest map for the country.

A rash guard and a low-volume mask and snorkel make it easier to stay relaxed in the water, which is half of being still. A waterproof action camera can stay on the boat if you prefer to simply look. Nobody needs a photograph more than the manta needs space.

The conservation layer: protected, popular and pressured

Manta ray fishing was banned in Komodo National Park and surrounding waters in 2013, and rays received national protection in Indonesia in 2014, according to the PeerJ authors. That is a real success. The study also notes that tourism in the park grew between 2014 and 2017, with 34% more dive boats per survey at Karang Makassar and Mawan.

The authors say their data is a base for future trend work and does not itself show decline. They did record injuries: fishing gear injuries on 56 individuals, about 5%, and predator injuries on 32, about 3%. They recommend limiting the number of tour boats at manta sites at one time and making codes of conduct for diving and snorkelling with mantas mandatory.

WWF-Indonesia reported that tour operators themselves described divers crowding cleaning areas, boats passing too close over mantas, and divers trying to chase and touch them. A workshop in December 2015 brought the ministry, the park, operators and WWF together to talk about national manta regulations. I could not find the current legal distance in an official source, so the safest rule is the one in this article: no touching, no chasing, no blocking the path. Check the current rule before you travel. Our piece on tourism pressure on Komodo’s mantas goes deeper.

How to be useful in the water

Listen to the brief. Get down or stay up when you are told. Keep off the reef head where the cleaner fish are working. If three other groups are already on the site, your patience might mean skipping it, and that is a good outcome, not a failure. Wildlife encounters are unpredictable. Diving and snorkelling with manta rays should always follow local regulations and experienced professional guidance.

Our own retreats keep groups to six guests at most, so a team can leave a station that is already busy and come back later or choose another day. That is the spirit we would bring here too, but Komodo is not part of any Ocean Calling trip today. If this made you curious about experiencing mantas with this kind of care, you can explore our retreats.

Flying to Indonesia also has a real carbon cost. If you go, stay longer and do fewer places, and choose operators who keep boat numbers low.

Questions people ask

Will I see mantas in Komodo?

Often, in the right season, on the right current. Never as a promise. Mantas move between sites, and the study I used found that the rays had clear favourite places.

Scuba or snorkel?

Both exist. The right choice is the one where you can stay calm and still. Research in the Maldives suggests scuba divers who keep three metres or more and stay off cleaning stations cause little reaction.

Can I touch or chase a manta?

No. Touching and chasing were among the behaviours that operators and researchers flagged as harmful. Let the manta decide the distance.

Can I go to the park alone?

You need the park system and a competent local boat. This is not a beach-entry picnic. Ask the operator which version of the park rules they follow.

Is it okay if other boats are already at the site?

If several groups are already there, waiting or moving on is kinder. The PeerJ authors recommend limiting boat numbers at manta sites, which tells us crowding is a recognised problem.

Are mantas protected in Indonesia?

Yes. Fishing for manta rays was banned in Komodo in 2013 and rays have had national protection since 2014, according to the PeerJ authors. Check the current rule before you travel.

Wildlife encounters are never guaranteed and never forced. Ocean Calling works only with vetted, ethical local operators, and every animal is free to approach, or not, entirely on its own terms.

Sources & further reading
  1. Residency, movement patterns, behavior and demographics of reef manta rays in Komodo National Park. PeerJ, 2022.
  2. Same study, open-access full text. PubMed Central, 2022.
  3. Manta ray tourism in Komodo, operator and regulation workshop. WWF-Indonesia, 2015.
  4. Pelletier, 2018. Reef manta ray response to divers at cleaning stations, Maldives (MSc thesis). Manta Trust.
  5. Lynam, 2012. The impacts of tourism on a population of manta rays, Baa Atoll, Maldives (MSc thesis). Manta Trust.
  6. Responsible tourism with sharks and rays. CMS Sharks MOU.
  7. Ray of hope for Indonesian manta populations. Murdoch University.

Further reading on Ocean Calling: Responsible manta diving · Manta sites have different roles

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