Wildlife & the law

Humpback Whale Rules in Moʻorea and French Polynesia

Ask three people in Moʻorea what the whale rules are and you may get three answers. Nobody is careless. The rules have changed, press reports quote different numbers, and the details sit in French legal texts.

Humpback whale swimming close with long pectoral fin
Humpback whale swimming close with long pectoral fin. Photo: Chinh Le Duc, Unsplash

So here is the short answer first. In French Polynesia, humpback whale observation is licensed boat by boat, the whales are around from roughly July to November, and watching is not allowed inside lagoons, bays or passes. Ocean Calling is not a permit holder. Everything else on this page comes with a date and a “check the current rule before you travel”.

When is humpback whale season in Moʻorea?

Humpbacks come to French Polynesia in the austral winter to breed and give birth. The government environment directorate (DIREN) says in a 2025 guide that they arrive from July to the end of October and slowly spread around the islands. Other sources give a similar window of July to November. The same DIREN guide says observation authorisations are only valid from 20 July to 20 November inclusive. If your trip is at the edge of the season, ask the operator what they have seen that week.

It was once assumed that these whales were only passing through. Researcher Michael Poole, who founded the Marine Mammal Research Program on Moʻorea, found that French Polynesia is a breeding ground, and he proposed the whale and dolphin sanctuary that the government created in 2002, according to a press profile. That history matters, because it explains why the rules exist.

What the law says: three layers

The rules sit in the environment code of French Polynesia. DIREN cites articles LP 2213-1-1 and A. 2213-1-4 to A. 2213-1-11. Approaching whales for observation or filming for commercial use needs an authorisation, and applications go through an online service called Paraoa. I describe what I could confirm in three layers, because they do not agree perfectly.

DIREN’s 2025 guide sets out three circles around the animal. Within 15 metres, nobody may enter. Within 100 metres, the safety zone, no boat may enter. Within 300 metres, only authorised boats may enter, and no more than three of them. Boats keep below 3 knots in that 300 metre observation zone, and boats without an authorisation stay outside it. Observation is only possible in the territorial sea around Bora Bora, Huahine, Moʻorea, Raiatea, Rurutu, Tahaa, Tahiti, Tetiaroa and Tubuai, from 20 July to 20 November inclusive, from 07:30 to 17:30, with one authorised boat per island for each group of companies. Whale observation is strictly forbidden in lagoons, bays and passes. In-water entries, if requested in the authorisation, are possible outside the exclusion zone for seven people per vessel, including the guide.

Press reports tell the same story from the side. Reports of an order announced in April 2024 gave 100 metres for boats and 15 metres for swimmers, and a Figaro Nautisme report from November 2025 described the 300 metre zone, the three boat limit, the hours and a ban on approaching unaccompanied calves. The DIREN guide also asks you to avoid approaching calves that are on their own.

These figures are not the same thing. The 15 metres is a circle no person enters, the 100 metres a circle no boat enters, and the 300 metres the zone where only up to three authorised boats may be. I took them from DIREN’s official guide, which summarises the environment code. I could not open the code text itself, so ask the operator to show you the current rule.

Who holds the permit

The authorisation is issued to an operator and its vessel, not to a travel company. Ocean Calling is not a permit holder anywhere. When a whale day is part of our Moʻorea retreat, the boat must be a licensed local operator for that season, and that is something we check before the season, not something we take on trust. If an operator cannot show you an authorisation, that tells you what you need to know.

The system is also moving. A court document from the administrative tribunal of French Polynesia in August 2026 refers to a government decision of 26 June 2026 about how long authorisations last, and to a quota for Moʻorea. Other tribunal documents from July 2026 concern operators whose applications were refused. I do not know how these cases ended. The point for a traveller is simple: which boats may work in a given season can change, so a name that was fine last year needs checking again.

What a respectful encounter looks like

Whatever the exact distance, the shape of a good encounter is the same. The boat approaches slowly, stays to the side and behind, and never drives into the middle of a group. Whales are never chased, touched or fed. A mother with a calf is given more room, and the boat leaves if the animals show stress. In the water, a small group, a calm entry and a guide who reads the animals matter more than any number on paper. Wildlife encounters are unpredictable. Whale watching and swimming should always follow local regulations and experienced professional guidance.

For the day itself, a rash guard adds sun protection and warmth on the boat, and a mineral sunscreen from our reef-friendly list keeps the sun off your skin. I would only take a waterproof camera if it does not change how you behave: an underwater camera is useful, but nothing is worth moving closer for.

Popularity is a pressure

Whale tourism in French Polynesia has grown, and press reports from 2024 describe concern for the health of the whales. The reforms of 2024 and 2025 are described as a response, with limits on hours, boats and swimmers. That is a hopeful sign. It is also a reminder that more boats mean more noise and more stress, especially for mothers and young calves that rest in shallow, sheltered places.

There is also the cost of getting to Moʻorea, which is a long way from most of the world. I think the honest response is to travel less often, stay longer, avoid the busiest weeks and choose operators that follow the rules and limit their trips. Our comparison of Moʻorea as a whale destination and the guide to what DIREN actually allows go deeper, and how French Polynesia regulates whale tourism explains the system as a whole.

What we will not tell you

That you will see a whale. Nobody can promise that, and an operator who does is telling you something about themselves. We also will not describe calves, song or lagoon encounters as part of a plan, because the first two are luck, and the third is not permitted. If this made you curious, you can explore our Moʻorea retreat in September 2027, inside the whale season, from CHF 4,500 per person in a double room shared with your own partner or friend. To book, you simply message Rocío.

Questions people ask

When can you see humpback whales in Moʻorea?

DIREN says humpbacks arrive in French Polynesia from July to the end of October. Its 2025 guide says observation authorisations run from 20 July to 20 November inclusive, from 07:30 to 17:30.

How close can boats and swimmers go?

According to DIREN’s 2025 guide, nobody may enter within 15 metres of a whale, no boat within 100 metres, and only up to three authorised boats within 300 metres, at under 3 knots. Rules can change, so check the current rule before you travel.

Can I see whales inside the lagoon?

No. DIREN says whale observation is strictly forbidden in lagoons, bays and passes, and in-water encounters are banned there.

How many people can be in the water?

DIREN’s 2025 document says up to seven people per vessel, including the guide, outside the exclusion zone, when this has been requested in the authorisation.

Who is allowed to run whale trips?

Only authorised operators. The permit is granted to the operator and its vessel through the Paraoa process, and you can ask to see it.

Does Ocean Calling hold the whale permit?

No. Ocean Calling is not a permit holder anywhere. We work with licensed local operators and check their authorisation each season.

Wildlife encounters are never guaranteed and never forced. Ocean Calling works only with vetted, ethical local operators, and every animal is free to approach, or not, entirely on its own terms.

Sources & further reading
  1. Direction de l’Environnement (DIREN), Polynésie française, 2025. Mammifères marins en Polynésie française (guide MMM 2025), summarising the Code de l’environnement de la Polynésie française, art. LP. 2213-1-1 and A. 2213-1-4 to A. 2213-1-11
  2. Polynésie française : nouvelle réglementation forte pour l’observation des baleines et la sauvegarde des cétacés. Figaro Nautisme, 17 November 2025
  3. En Polynésie, l’essor du tourisme des baleines suscite des craintes pour la santé des cétacés. Les Nouvelles Calédoniennes / AFP, 2024
  4. Tribunal administratif de la Polynésie française, ordonnance, July 2026 (whale approach authorisations)
  5. Tribunal administratif de la Polynésie française, ordonnance, August 2026
  6. Following the Call of Moorea’s Humpback Whales (profile of Michael Poole). XTERRA Planet

Further reading on Ocean Calling: What DIREN actually allows in French Polynesia · How French Polynesia regulates whale tourism · All destinations and the rules that apply · Ocean Atlas

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